In the land where big is best, the dire economy and search for a healthier way of life have combined to produce a mini-boom in mini-cows.

Across the United States, in small-holdings, back plots and across rolling grasslands in the Midwest, people are raising miniature cattle — half the size of normal bovines. The compact cows, which reach a little above waist-height, are not dwarfs, but are drawn from a variety of breeds that have existed for centuries.

The popularity of mini-cows took off as ranchers began to downsize in the recession and feed prices rose sharply. The drive for more efficient and more sustainable farming methods also boosted a switch to miniature cattle. A decade ago there were fewer than 5,000 mini-cows in the US. Now there are an estimated 20,000, according to the International Miniature Cattle Breeds Registry.

Farmers say that the cows eat about half as much as a full-sized animal, yet produce up to 75 per cent of the rib-eyes and fillets. As health-conscious Americans have tried to wean themselves off huge portions, the mini-cuts of meat can command a premium. The average mini-cow produces leaner meat. For some consumers, being able to raise their own cattle is the ultimate way of ensuring their food’s provenance.

Martha Mintun and her partner, Fred Joosse, set up a mini-cattle breeding business two years ago near Santa Rosa, California. The Sonoma Little Cattle Co now has 14 mini-cows, with several about to calve. They have Lowline Angus cattle — good for meat — and American Miniature Jersey cattle — good for milking. “For today’s economy, where people haven’t necessarily got the room on the range, these cattle are perfect,” Mr Joosse said. “They don’t ruin a property. They are lovely animals, easy to birth, easy to look after. You get more meat per fixed pasture space.”

The Jerseys produce about three gallons of milk a day, perfect, according to Mr Joosse, for a “family milk cow”. He said they had a waiting list of customers.

The boom in mini-cows marks a partial return to the days before industrialisation of cattle farming sent the size of bovines soaring. Ron Lemenager, Professor of Animal Science at Purdue University in West Lafayette, Indiana, said that in the 1960s the average US carcass size was less than 1,000lb, but that shot up to more than 1,300lb with imports of bigger breeds for more meat. Affordable refrigeration meant mega-dairies needed cows that produced as much milk as possible.

He said that miniature cattle (about 500lb) would remain a niche market and that part of their popularity was the premium they commanded as grass-fed beef, which contains higher levels of healthy Omega 3 fatty acids.

But looking after mini-cows does have problems, Ms Mintun said. They had to erect extra fencing to keep newborn calves the size of a labrador dog from slipping between the bars. They also had to buy ID collars small enough to stay on. Ms Mintun said: “These cattle are great as pets. They will even mow your grass for you.”